ESTABLISHMENT OF UKRAINIAN VYSHYVANKA

National clothes Ukrainians very varied , colorful, amazing variety of costume forms, comfortable and beautiful details that successfully fit together between itself , forming a peculiar set of clothes , characteristic for each region . characteristic traits national costume were created for centuries , therefore they reflect history people , demonstrate people ‘s perception of beauty in different stages history , skill to embody his aesthetic creativity in creating and decorating clothes . For ethnographers and art historians Ukrainian costume is rich source information about Ukrainian history , culture , relationships in the family and society , the ability express love for beauty in the original techniques and techniques used for decorating _ items of folk costume.

clothing Ukrainians , like all other peoples , was intended not only for warmth and comfort in everyday affairs . big meaning clothes has committed _ cult and religious rituals associated _ co significant life events _ people , family and everyone individual person . rich , saturated events story Ukrainian people , the character of Ukrainians , reflected in the features clothes that _ takes conspicuous place in the world ethnic culture .

In the elements of the Ukrainian costume, the influence of other nations can be traced, which throughout history interacted with the Ukrainians to varying degrees. The traditional costume is based on the clothes of the Slavs who lived on the territory of Ukraine, especially during the prosperity of Kievan Rus. The costume of the Ukrainians was a harmonious complex of garments, the main composition of which included underwear, lumbar, chest and outerwear. Headdresses, shoes, belts and various removable ornaments complemented the decoration. Each item had a specific purpose, only its inherent way of wearing, as well as the possibility of combining into a complex with other items. Details of clothing were made from appropriate materials in traditional colors and decorated in their own way.

The basis of any male and female Ukrainian costume is an undershirt made of homespun cloth. Men wore short shirts of a tunic -like shape, with long sleeves and a tightly closed neck. Women sewed themselves long shirts with a greater variety of cuts than men. The shirt could be tunic -like , with one-piece sleeves or with shoulder inserts. Pants of various cuts were used as belt clothes for men, from trousers to leggings ( gacha ), which were sewn from dark or light-colored homemade cloth. Women’s belt (loin) clothing was almost not sewn, but was made from one or two or three fabrics, which were wrapped around the hips in a special way and fastened with a belt. The fabric for this was taken home-woven monophonic or with patterns. In different regions, women’s belt clothing differed significantly in shape, material, colors and ornaments .

In frosty winter weather, the peasants put on a warm sheepskin coat without covering it with any fabric. Its cut also had its differences in different regions.

Urban clothing also had its own characteristics and gradually developed and changed. Crafts were actively developing in the city, specializing in certain types of production, including weaving, which could produce better quality fabrics than domestic ones. Thanks to manufactories, urban clothing became more unified, sewing technologies and the composition of the clothing complex changed.

The most valuable elements of the men’s elegant costume were stripes, lace, cuffs and buttons. The stripes were made of a material that stood out in contrasting color against the background of the main fabric of the suit. The color of the ties with tassels ( works ) matched the color of the stripes. Cuffs, like stripes, were richly embroidered with precious stones, pearls, and gold buttons. The laces were very varied and beautiful. Pearl buttons, consisting of several small, and sometimes even one large pearl, were a source of pride and luxury. People from poor classes, of course, could not afford such decoration, but they successfully replaced jewelry with beautiful original jewelry made of silk and colored threads.

Belts were an obligatory component of a man’s suit. The simplest was a belt tied over a shirt. The main beauty of the costume and the pride of the owner was a sash – a wide long soft belt, which was wrapped around the waist several times and tied or fastened in a special way .

The composition and characteristics of clothing depended on various reasons: season, weather, rituals, everyday situation, social status. For large celebrations, they put on a full set of clothes, which clearly showed the material and family status of a person, his national and regional affiliation. The Ukrainian costume reflects the national culture and spirituality of the people, it contains historical knowledge and values.

Starting from the 19th century, most Ukrainians began to wear urban clothes, gradually forgetting their native traditions. However, many documents and samples of ancient Ukrainian clothing have been preserved, which can tell a lot about the history and original culture of the Ukrainian people. Thanks to people who have preserved the memory of the national costume, today there is a revival of interest in national clothes, and with it in the entire Ukrainian history.

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